It's Wetter In The Bahamas

Remember the advertisement - It's Better In The Bahamas?

The phrase - It's Wetter In The Bahamas -  was coined by  Captain Merwin of Chrystina a couple of weeks ago.  It was certainly true for us during part of the time we were in Abaco.  We just returned from a 7 week cruise that included 4 weeks in Abaco Bahamas.  Located about 150 miles east of the Florida coast, the chain of small islands and cays are a great cruising ground.  Once the Gulf Sream is crossed and the Little Bahama Bank is crossed, the Sea of Abaco offers a cruising area popular to hundreds of cruising boats each year.  To us it was a unique experience with - more exposure to open anchorages and open ocean, clear water with reefs to explore by divers and snorklers, a life style by locals that is so relaxing and friendly I would be surprised if there were any locals with high blood pressure problems.

I thought I would use this space to give a chronology of our trip.  But I think I will only say we hit the high spots - Green Turtle, Guana, Hope Town, Marsh Harbour and Green Turtle again.  All were populated areas with cute little settlements and friendly people - locals and fellow cruisers.  Due to weather we didn't get to visit some of the smaller unpopulated Cays and explore beaches and snorkle there.  The anchorages were too exposed to the unreliable weather to be safe.

The return crossing of the Gulf Stream was as uneventful as the first trip.  We did loose our "buddy boats" about 20 miles out so we travelled the remaining 35 miles alone - nothing on the horizon but clouds.  Diane was a little jittery.  It was sad to see the boats we had spent so much time with and became so close to their crews all scatter in different directions - Wings, Uteca Wren and Xanadu to Exuma, Chrystina to Ft. Pierce for storage then home to Nashville for the crew , Katchen Abrez attempting Venice only to be driven aground on rocks in rough weather in Lake Okeechobee while crossing from Stewart to Ft. Myers, Persephone to Charleston and Freelance still in Abaco making new friends.
During our 4 weeks in Abaco Diane found some treasures on the beach  - conch shells, sea biscuits, etc. which she has hidden away on the boat somewhere so I don't step on them.  We did get to snorkle a little but not enough.  We did get to sail but surprisingly less than we thought.   I guess we expected too much.  We envisioned soft wafting breezes steady from the SE at 10 knots day after day.  That's what the cruising guide books promise.  We got all day rains, 20-25 knots of wind from almost every direction except the typcial prevailing SE winds and one exciting night of over 40 knots of sustained winds with gusts over 50.  Two days later that little storm turned into Burle which hit Jacksonville with tropical storm winds near hurricane force. Anchored boats dragging all over the place.  Everyone in Green Turtle was ready to fly home the next day.  But a couple of rum punch drinks by the pool the next afternoon had us all charged up to move on.  Even when we returned to Florida we got 5 of 7 days with rain; mostly all day drizzle type stuff not the sunny all day except for the 20 minute downpour more typical of Florida in June. The drought in Florida is definately over.

When we got to sail it was magnificent.  Going 40 miles at 6 knots under sail without ever needing to trim a sail was wonderful, particularly when we could look down into 15' of water and watch the sea floor go by underneath the boat.  The Sea of Abaco and the Little Bahama Bank are truely wonders of nature.

Ok - photo time.
In no particular order -
Main Street - Guana

Man O War boat building craftmanship

Man O War view of the Sea of Abaco

Road to the beach on Green Turtle Cay

Abaco Inn view of the Atlantic

Yes there were sunsets

Diane in the galley

Green Turtle Cay Club - home of the Tipsey Turtle

Center of the World Rock ( in case you wonder about such stuff)

Well the trip is over.  We had talked about doing it for years.  We finally got around to it.  Not sure what is next but we are thinking about it already.

Green Turtle goodbye

With a good forecast coming up, we are planning to leave Green Turtle Cay tomorrow so we will not have internet for at least 3 days, maybe up to 5 or 6.  If the weather cooperates we may be back in the states in less than a week.

New restaurant concept in Guana - "take in" instead of "take out" restaurant.

Hope Town photos

Man O War

Internet connection seems to have improved.  Here are another photo.  Sorry about the typos in the blog.  I guess I'm used to auto correct and I don't pay too much attention to spelling.  We should have some good photos to send from Hope Town tomorrow.

Friday the 17th??

Yes I know, Friday is the 18th but I don't really care.

From Guana and Man O War Cays

Hi everyone.
The weather has been untypical of the Abaco spring.  It has kept us in marinas for the most part this week but we are hopeful a high pressure area now in Mexico will bring a return to the normal weather pattern of sunny days and light breezes from the SE.  We are still travelling more or less with about 5 other cruising boats.  We seem to always wind up at the same marina or anchorage.  Some days we leap frog one another but we eventually seem to wind up in the same places.  It has been fun to get to know people from all over the south east USA.  Thanks to my my college buddy BJ we even met some local folks here on Man O War Cay who are live aboards.  They were very helpful in directing us to all the places to visit.

We left the Green Turtle Club Marina on Green Turtle Cay Monday the 14th under threatening skys but a rising tide.  After 3 hours of motoring in "on the nose" wind of about 10 knots and rain that often kept us from seeing "the nose" we passed through Whale Cay Channel which is notorious for rough seas in certain conditions.  We avoided the certain conditions.  We anchored in Fishers Bay off the north side of Guana Settlement and attempted to dry out.  We were in company with Freelance, Wings, Persephone and later Uteca Wren.  All boats that we had met before either at Green Turtle or West End.

We did find some time between rain drops to visit Guana and it's little settlement.  We also visited "Nippers" which is perhaps the most famous bar and restaurant in the Abacos.  Nippers is perched on a bluff about 50' above the beach with an absolutely astounding view of the Atlantic and the close in reefs that protect Guana.  Photos to follow.  The big attraction for us was that Nippers offers free local and international phone calls to customers.  Needless to say, we became customers but with one small problem.  Modern technology such as speed dial means that we don't memorize anyone's phone number.  Diane finally remembered Dana's number and called her for a brief chat.  Nippers is one of those places that is part bar, part restaurant, part civic center and part telecommunications center for the island.  Somewhere I read there are about 450 full time residents on Guana.  Nippers probably employs 10% of the population.

OK - photo time
The first 3 are naturally - Nippers

This one below is of downtown Guana Settlement. We found another post office (only open on Thursday afternoons).  We also found the house on the bluff overlooking the ocean that we rented with our children way back in '99.  That brought back some nice memories.

So, two night at anchor near Guana and it's off to Man O War in (you guessed it) a rain storm.  Entering the cut in the rocks to Man O War's harbor is a knee shaking event for first timers.  Sharp rocks are apparent above the water line and you imagination can only think its worse below the water line.  I'm not sure there was a 50' opening.  It certainly felt like 50".  Since it rained a slow steady drizzle most of the day we only got to visit BJ's friends for a few minutes before being driven below to dry out.  The treat of the day was an ice cream bar that had the absolute best ice cream since the last place we visited.  We found the local post office here open only on Thursday, the phone company office only open on the first Wednesday of the month and the only bank in town open every Thursday from 10 to 2.  Life moves at a different pace than we are used to but we are beginning to like it.  Our two nights and two days here were mostly rainy so we don't have any good photos of beaches, sun sets and sun rises.  But, here's what we got -

Yes, Ed - "there be dragons"

M O W is noted for boat building.

Our internet connection is getting a little goofy so we will try to send more photos later.  Tomorrow (Friday the 17th we are going to Hope Town is search of a restaurant and a swimming pool).

Green Turtle Cay

Tonight is our 3rd night here at Green Turtle Cay Club.  We've met several nice couples who are all making short spring cruises too -  Darrel & Jennifer on Freelance, Dave & Dotty on Wings, Bud & Jann on Persphone.  The wind has been NE 15-25 all day and is expected to remain the same tomorrow, then shift to the SE at 10-15 on Monday.  If that happens we will leave Monday morning and head south for Guana Cay and pick up a mooring near the small settlement there for the night and visit Nippers, a beach front restaurant on a high bluff overlooking the ocean and a beautiful reef.  We have snorkled on this reef before and if the water is calm we will do it again.  We may be travelling in company with Perspone to Guana Cay.  Thursday we shared a golf cart with Wings and toured Green Turtle.  I'll post some beach photos below.  Friday we napped and spent time at the pool and danced on the restaurant outdoor deck to a local regge band that played a few Waylen Jennings and Louis Armstrong tunes if you can imagine that.  Today we took the dinghy to town.  New Plymouth is a settlement of a few hundred people on the south end of the Cay about a 1 mile dinghy ride away.  We did some shopping for groceries.  Some products are from the US some from British Commonwealth countries.  After eating New Zealand butter on toast this morning I don't think I'll ever be happy with US cows ever again. Diane wrote some postcards.  They won't get mailed until next Thursday since mail is only picked up and delivered one day a week.  There doesn't seem to be poverty here but definately an economy of plain living on a basic level.  There are no supermarkets here, only little mom and pop groceries that carry basic necessities.  If you want more, go to the larger island town of Marsh Harbour - population of about 15,000 we were told.

So here are a couple of beach photos Taken a short walk from the marina.

These below are of the Sea of Abaco looking south from the Bluff House toward New Plymouth.  That's Dotty from Wings next to Diane.

New Plymouth is a town of quaint small houses and shops with narrow streets mostly used by golf carts and pedestrians.  We see a few cars now and then.

AND NOW FOR THE

PHOTO OF THE DAY THANKS TO DIANE

I have no idea why the text alignment just changed, but never the less - Diane spotted this star fish in about 3 feet of wate as we were riding in the dinghy back to the boat from New Plymouth.  It's about 10" from tip to tip.  We have seen several of these in the past week but this is the first time we had the camera when we saw one.

Bahamas bound

We made the Gulf Stream crossing in flat calm conditions, then had two days of great sailing from West End to Mangrove Cay on day one then to Foxtown roadstead on day two.  Steady 10 knot winds from the south both days.  Day 3 & 4 brought stronger winds and rain.  We are now docked at Green Turtle Club Marina on Green Turtle Cay.

I'm a little rusty on blogging so I'll just attach a few photos this morning and do some more later today if this attempt is successful.

The photo above is of our Gulf Stream buddy boat, Xanadu.  She is a sister ship to Sea Breeze.  Note the flat calm seas. It made for a long 11 hour crossing under power but the crossing was uneventful.

The above two photos are of sunset and moon rise from our first night at anchor in West End.  The photos were taken within a few minutes of each other.  Sorry about the blurry moon but you get the idea.

These two photos are of the marina property at West End - pool and beach.

Crow's Nest - Venice, FL

We just arrived at the Crow's Nest Restaurant and Marina in Venice. Diane's favorite restaurant is here so Sea Breeze can't pass by without automatically pulling into the dock. Tonight, as usual, Diane will review every item on the menu and struggle trying to make a choice.......then order the same thing she always does when we come here.

After leaving Gasparilla Marina we spent a couple of days sailing in the Gulf and one day motoring in seas of glass; zero wind all day. We met our long time friend Ed and his lady Laura for dinner in Ft. Myers Beach. The city provides a bunch of moorings for minimal cost to boat owners. It is so convenient and hassle free. I wish all cities would sponsor such facilities. They are a great money maker for the city.

We are on our way home. Too bad about the broken fuel pump and the loss of 3 weeks we thought we would get to spend in the Keys, but I am excited about my mother's upcoming visit to see her great grandchildren. We certainly enjoyed our little cruise and have learned to adapt when the unexpected happens. We learned long ago that while cruising you take what comes and the satisfaction of a successful trip is not in keeping to a schedule but the joy of visiting new places and meeting new people. Sea Breeze should be back at her dock in 2-3 days.

Finally - back on the water again

We finally have the fuel pump problem fixed. So since being at Gasparilla Marina since April 22nd we get to get back to our cruise tomorrow morning. If you have to be "stuck" somewhere, this is a great place to be. We did the car shuffle a couple of times so we were not at a loss for ground transportation. The food, sunsets, scenery and people were all very nice. Paul and Erma were wonderful. It looks like the summer heat and humidity is setting in, so we will not make it to the Keys. We will hang out here in the Boca Grande area, maybe visit Naples or Ft. Myers Beach and Sanibel Island along with Cayo Costa and Cabbage Key again. No photos this posting. We will send another update before next weekend.

more photos

I know these posts are coming in reverse order. But hang in there, there is some text coming a little down the screen.

Photo 1 -the spoonbills

Photo 2 - our egret neighbor

Photo 3 - our Houston/Argentina neighbors

Photo 4 - beach bunnies at sunset on Gasparilla Island in front of Paul and Erma's house.

More photos

Photo 1 - bird of paradise plant on Gasparilla Island

Photo 2 - a hungry egret fishing in a bait tank at the marina

Photo 3 - the view at Widdens Marina, sorry we didn't get a photo of the pigs and goats. The irony here is that this is island has residents who have more net worth than the residents of any other square mile in the US

hanging out at Gasparilla Marina

There is something very special about sunset at a marina. The sky is light blue with pink above the western horizon. The ospreys perch high on sailboat masts and the corners of building tops while the egrets and herons stand frozen in time on the floating docks and rip rap. All hoping for that last fish catch before night fall. A dolphin cruises the marina fairway looking to corner a mullet against the concrete bulkhead. A manatee family lounges between the boats in slips to avoid the traffic of the center console fishing boats that come and go. The fuel dock attendant and mechanics have gone home. The last of the fishing guides have dropped off their day charters who in boisterous voices confirm the old adage about fishermen returning home from the sea. It’s so quiet we unconsciously whisper to each other as we talk about our day exploring by dinghy the islands nearby and the unexpected discovery of 6 roseate spoonbills and the hidden canoe trail tunneling into the overhanging mangroves.When I last posted a note on the blog we had just pulled into a marina at the north end of Charlotte Harbor; east side of the ICW just south of the swing bridge. We had discovered fuel in our engine oil that day – not a good thing. Monday, the 26th a mechanic give us the bad news. A high pressure fuel pump was leaking and this caused fuel to be mixed with the lubricating oil which created a risk of severe and expensive engine damage. We’ve been at Gasparilla Marina for over a week now waiting to have the pump rebuilt. We certainly can’t say we’ve been “stuck” here. For starters, our marina neighbor is a nice couple from Houston; immigrants 10 years ago from Argentina. A fun loving couple a full of energy and anxious to get back to Houston to their grandchildren. Before their departure on 5/3 they cooked a steak dinner for us complete with white table cloth. It was a reward for my lucky guess in fixing their marine radio. We also enjoyed a weekend of hospitality from our neighbors at home who own a beach house on Gasparilla Island which is only a few minutes from our marina. We spent 3 lovely days with them walking the beach, helping with the inevitable second home projects and touring the island. Paul and Erma are the most generous of friends. We have also taken dinghy trips to the beach and explored some of the small islands near the marina. Shelling for Diane has been a success. There are several bags of her precious cargo now stored on board. I should also mention the little restaurant/bar on the marina property which has been a source of entertainment; some of it from the musicians. We have also spent some of our time reading and doing low priority maintenance projects that always seem to fall to the bottom of “the list”. Tomorrow, Friday 5/7 we will rent a car and decide what to do for the next few days. If the mechanic gods appear favorable we will just spend the weekend exploring the area by car. If we have doubts about prompt return of our fuel pump, we may drive home to get are car and return to the marina with expectations of spending much more time here than planned. I am attaching some photos that I hope you enjoy.
Oops - it looks like the internet connection won't allow too many photo uploads at once, so I will try to send my photos in 2 or 3 posts that will preceed this one.

Photo 1 - a sign at Widdens Marina (I hope I spelled that right, but somehow I don't think they would really care)

Photo 2 - different sign, same place. Would you believe the G. Bush family vacations here

Photo 3 - our dear friends Paul and Erma at the Boca Grande light house. A pastel painting of this lighthouse is on the main bulkhead of Sea Breeze.

Photo 4 - manatees in our marina at Gasparilla Marina

Dialog to follow

We thought you would enjoy these photos. So far we have enjoyed a great 10 days in the Boca Grande area. Beautiful beaches and good restaurants plus hooking up with old friends from NY and making new friends from Argentina. Top photo is a collection of Diane's shell search at the north end of Gasparilla Island. Second photo - Osprae nest at our dock in Apollo Beach. Claudia takes such good care of the newborns. Third photo is taken from the water tower at Cabbage Key. Our boat is just to the right out of site behind the palms. Bottom photo is a Gopher Turtle on Cabbage Key. Diane had some great success finding shells on Gasparilla Island. Crab-w0man has morphed into 'shell woman'.

We left Apollo Beach (home for us, a suburb of Tampa) on April 15th. After fueling in St. Petersburg we anchored for the night in the Manatee River. On the 16th we sailed in the Gulf of Mexico to the Venice Inlet. From there we motor sailed down the ICW to an anchorage near Inglewood. From the 17th to today (25th) we have day sailed to several marinas and anchorages in the Boca Grande area. It's the Florida version of the Chesapeake Bay.