Beaufort, SC to Jacksonville, FL

After leaving Beaufort, SC we spent 3 lovely nights at anchorages in the New River (behind Hilton Head Is.), Rosebird Cr. (south of Savannah), and the North River before spending a suprisingly great night at Brunswick, GA's town marina. We found an absolutely wonderful restaurant called the 4th of May Cafe - I had tomato pie, butter beans and pot roast with melt-in-your-mouth Vidallia Onions. I haven't had butter beans since the 70's. A good cook can make them taste wonderful, a bad cook can make them taste like glue. This was a very good cook. Tomato Pie is cooked chopped fresh tomatos and onions with Parmesan Cheese baked with a topping of bread crumbs. Oh man, the tomatos were grown in heaven. Diane's fresh caught grouper was melt in your mouth great. This is quite a change from my emails from Georgia last year. In 2008 I was talking about the great salt marshes with isolated anchorages and now I'm talking about Tomato Pie. After leaving Brunswick we spent two nights at anchor off Cumberland Island GA. This is my favorite place without question. Again we were the only two people on the 20 mile beach. Diane found her usual treasures - shells and starfish. No sharks teeth or sand dollars this time. We did see a ghost crab (photo) and lots of holes where they hide during the day. I don't think we have ever seen a live one before this. Lots of gulls and plovers on the beach. Shrimp boats offshore. Robin egg blue sky. Sounds of surf breaking on the beach. We continue to meet such interesting people along our way. This week we have met two boats from California. One of them captained by a guy who brought his trawler alone from the Panama Canal to Cumberland Island. His wife left him in Panama after making the trip from California to the PC. That's a whole lot of miles alone at sea, day and night on autopilot. A very lucky guy - not because is wife left him, but because he didn't hit anything in the dark. We also met a couple - he from Australia, she from China with a 3 year old daughter who were visiting the US by yacht. Nice yacht - 50+' with every toy you could imagine. Need to take a nap, no problem, set the autopilot and radar ship proximity alarm and get some zzzzzzz's. Now we are in Jacksonville, FL at a very nice condo/marina that was once a very nice boat yard. Gone is the travel lift, engine shop, paint shop. Now it's the 5 story condo with swimming pool. Much nicer to swim in the pool but I miss the boat yard atmosphere sometimes. I walked the docks tonight and found about 1/3 of the boats here hail from ports north of New York. Not a bad life - winter here in FL on the boat and spend summer at home in New England. We will spend the next few days here in the Ortega River doing boat maintenance, playing car shuffle, and spoiling our grandson while enjoying the hospitality of Mark & Christi and visiting BJ my fraternity brother from (Gawd forbid) the 60's. Here's the map of our latest travels.

Photos

1 - Grayfield Inn Cumberland Island

2 - Ghost Crab Cumberland Island

3 - Sailing under a rainbow - really

4 - Our tax dollars at work - nucular sub at Kings Bay GA

5 - North shore of Cumberland Island view from Jekyll Inlet

Georgetown, SC - Charleston, SC - Beaufort, SC

After leaving Georgetown, we travelled down the ICW surrounded by marsh grass (cordgrass I'm told is the correct name) to find a bridge stuck in the closed position just north of Charleston. So we could not go to the Charleston marina where we planned to meet our family for the weekend. Bummer. Plan B quickly surfaced and we found a nice marina in suburban Charleston on our side of the broken bridge where we could stay Friday through Sunday morning. We spent the weekend visiting "the kids"; to us that means Dana & Steve; Mark, Christi and Owen. Photo above. They had to drive a little further to our "new" marina, but it was closer to the beach so some benefits could be claimed. Steve found great restaurants. After 2 days of eating at places he recommended for lunch, dinner & breakfast, Diane and I had celery and crackers for dinner Sunday night. We still have distended stomachs. To much good food but a good job by Steve as tour guide. After leaving Isle of Palms we crossed Charleston Harbor in a strong easterly against an ebb tide that threw up a sea of white caps sparkling in the afternoon sun. After an exciting transit of Elliot Cut where we only made 2.0 knots headway against a 3.5 knot current Diane found a great anchorage for the night. The past 2 days have been a motoring trip through creeks, rivers and land cuts as we proceed southward. Since leaving Charleston, we have travelled up the Stono River, through a land cut then down the North River, up the Dawho River, through North Creek and the Watts Cut into the South Edisto River upstream to the Fenwick Cut into the Ashepoo River upstream then through the Ashepoo-Coosaw Cut into the Coosaw River upstream to Brickyard Creek downstream into the Beaufort River to..........where else....Beaufort. Actually Port Royal Marina just next door to Beaufort. Each of these creeks, rivers and cuts has a scenic personality of its own; much like the personality and techniques of commercial fishermen we see along the way. Some fish for crab with trot lines, others with wire baskets (crab pots) on lines with floats to mark their location. Some shrimp boats are 80' long vessels with large crews fishing the rivers as they go ocean bound, others are converted 18' runabouts with crews of one that fish the creeks and sloughs. We saw two bald eagles yesterday. Last night we were anchored in one of the most beautiful spots of our whole trip. Photo above. Can you just imagine sitting in one of those two white lawn chairs overlooking the marsh, live oak trees, water and sunset? We saw our first live oak trees with spanish moss just below Charleston. Gone are the tall pines and cypress for now. Tonight in Beaufort we borrowed a marina pick up truck and ran to the grocery store to restock with fresh veggies for the next few days. It feels like we are close to home even though we still have over 700 miles to go. The trip home is rushing by too fast. We plan to slow down once we get to FL. We've kind of rushed the trip home so far due to concern about being caught on the coast with a tropical depression or hurricane approaching. Our new most favorite phrase is from the NOAA weather reports and National Hurricane Center saying "tropical storm development is not likely in the next 48 hours". We have been very lucky so far this summer and hope we continue the same good fortune for the remaining few weeks of hurricane season. We hope to be in Jacksonville in about a week. Then it's time for car shuffle, errands, boat maintenance and a chance to spend some time with Mark, Christi & Owen....maybe even catch a football game on TV and visit with their friends (that we consider our friends too). Isn't it nice to be friends with you childrens' friends? Then, after we've caught our breath, it will be off toward Miami, the Keys and up the Gulf coast. The map link shows our progress since leaving the Outer Banks of NC.

Spooners Cr. to Georgetown, SC

This section of the ICW is the most varied. We passed through part of Camp LaJune and waited for the marines to stop shooting at targets along the waterway. From the condition of the targets we say, our guys need more practice. At Myrtle Beach we stayed in a very nice resort marina that had on site restaurants and a shuttle to the beach so Diane could collect more shark's teeth and shells. The past two nights have been spent at anchor in secluded creeks along the Waccamaw River. If you look at the map you will notice some of the creeks we explored on the 14th and 15th. In the evenings the only sounds came from birds and other wildlife. Not a human sound. At night we sat on deck trying to identify stars and planets. We have seen lots of birds along this section of the ICW; another eagle (either immature bald or golden, not sure which), gators, turtles plus the usual pelicans and gulls. Also a flock of wood storks. Three of the four photos are of the shoreline at our Waccamaw anchorages. In the forth, Diane is scouting for birds and alligators.

Washington, NC to Spooners Creek, NC

After a 2 month break, Diane and I are back on Sea Breeze this time headed for home. NC served up another wonderful little back water town this week. Oriental is a town we almost bypassed last year. We did spend a couple of days at a marina near town last July but only to avoid a tropical depression off the NC coast. You might remember this was the marina where a total stranger loaned us her car so we could grocery shop. Last week we docked in the town, right downtown.....in the middle of all 4 blocks of downtown. We visited a little art shop and talked with a lady that was co-owner of the shop. After a few minutes we noticed she looked familiar. Yep, it was the lady that loaned us her car last year. We sat on her shop porch overlooking the harbor and chatted it up about where we had been since we last saw her. She and her husband plan to sail to South America this winter and promised to stop somewhere on the FL east coast so we can meet again. She and her husband were so kind to us last year and again this year. This little town only has about 800 residents and is a mix of northern retirees, artsy types, yachties and commercial fishermen. It makes for a lively little town. Across the street from the town dock is a little coffee shop. Old geezers sit on the second story porch and critique the boat handling abilities of each boat that docks at the marina or town dock. Our friend said some days they hold up score signs like the olympic judges as each boat comes to rest. They didn't do this the days we were there but I know we would have rated a 10. We looked very smooth under their watchful eye. Eventually they all come by the cruising boats to check us out and find out where we've been and were we are going. They all want to tell us their story of how they got to Oriental. We met no strangers. I promised to not give weather reports when I update this blog, so no details....but the sailing has been spectacular. Strong northerly winds, lots of clouds, some rain and mild temps. Today (8th) marked a change of character in our crusing environment. I mentioned this last year. As we exited Adams Creek near Beaufort, NC we left the wide open sounds and rivers of the waterways protected by the Outer Banks. Looking back north into the mouth of the Neuse River, there is nothing but water for the 80+ miles back to Hatteras and Manteo on the Outer Banks. Open water wider than the offshore run from Miami to Bimini or Key West to Cuba. With all this open water we have been able to choose our daily destination based on best wind conditions. You can see this by the zig zag track we have taken since entering this area from Norfolk back in June. Today we entered the ditch as the ICW is often called. For the next 1000 miles we will be in a waterway made up of canals, creeks, winding rivers and sounds or inlets. You will see this as you check my maps. So off we go. Sea Breeze has a new coat of varnish, fresh bottom paint and clean hull. All shined up and ready to go. We are keeping a close ear on the weather reports and will find safe harbor if a tropical storm threatens to cross our path. A note on crab-woman. Lately we have found ourselves surrounded by shrimp. At our last anchorage they jumped and splashed all around us. Shrimp boats are everywhere. A shrimp net may be on our shopping list soon. Can't you just see live shrimp jumping all over the deck if Diane actually caught something?

Photo 1 - shrimp boats at town dock in Oriental at night

Photo 2 - Sea Breeze at town dock in Oriental

A long weekend with Mark

I was lucky enough to get my son Mark to spend 4 days with me on Sea Breeze while in the Pamlico River. We travelled much of the same territory as Diane & I did with Dana a year ago. Although the anchorage locations on the map don't look like we went very far, we actually covered about 120 nautical miles in 3 1/2 days of sailing. Wind conditions were perfect - 10 to 20 knots from the south which gave us calm seas in the east-west running river. We returned to my favorite spot, Bath, NC for lunch and ice cream and got knocked flat by a thunderstorm. Not much lightning but plenty of wind and rain. We all needed a shower anyway; especially Sea Breeze.

Outer Banks lighthouses

Sometimes good things result from a little adversity or inconvenience. By coming to the marina at Washington a couple of days early to clean up the rain water mess, we stumbled into a Friday night street fair with some very good local bands. One Friday each month, downtown Washington sponsors bands that are positioned on the sidewalk one per block over the 6 or 7 block downtown Main Street. Some of these bands were a little below average in ability, but two groups were very good. One was a group of perhaps 7 to 12 (it depended on who was around at the time) featured traditional NC hill country music. Along with the usual guitar and banjo were dulcimer and mandolin. Plus spoons. In the next block was a 5 man band that tonight was just a trio (two couldn't make the trip) that played R & B. The lead singer was well into his 70's and had all the energy and showmanship of Mick Jagger. Lead guitar guy was easily 60's. The youngster of the group looked 40-ish. Their energy drew a nonstop crowd. We also got to spend a day on the Outer Banks, driving from Kill Devil Hills to Hatteras and spending some time walking the beaches.

Photos:

Hatteras Lighthouse (2)

Bodie Lighthouse

Wright Bros. first flight memorial

Norfolk, VA to Washington, NC

The MAP link shows our progress during the past week. As you can see, we are not meandering back and forth across the Chesapeake anymore. Our progress is now more or less south. If you zoom in on the map you can see we have had a combination of canals, rivers and open sounds to travel lately. We have had some marvelous sailing days. The specials ones were from the North River to Manteo, then Manteo to the Alligator River anchorage and a wild downwind sail from Pungo Creek to Bath on the Pamlico River in strong wind on our stern and steep waves rolling up behind us who's crests we often looked at from eye level. These 3 days were bracketed by a day under power in a river/canal from Norfolk to Coinjock and another day under power from the bottom of the Alligator River to Pungo Creek. This last day was about 5 hours in a steady drizzle. We saw a bald eagle, but were too slow on the trigger to get a photo, so we are sending a photo of a crane instead. Bad joke, but it was that kind of day. Very dreary; one of those days that make you want to stretch out on the couch with a good book and fire in the fireplace. Yesterday, after the downwind ride from Pungo Creek we spent a relaxing evening at the little town of Bath. We stayed here last year and it was worth a repeat visit. Main Street is 2 blocks long and you can walk down the middle of the street at any time of day and the only risk you run to being injured would be if you tripped over the sleeping dog. We saw the same dog in the same spot when we were here 11 months ago. Today was a bit of a bummer. It started great with a walk down Main Street, a relaxing read in the cockpit and lunch at the little sandwich shop a block from the dock. Like an idiot, I did not close the deck hatches when we left the boat and while waiting on lunch the sky opened up and it poured. Not only did everything get soaked, the cabin sole actually had standing water; about 1/4 inch in some spots. We hustled up and motored to McCotter's Marina in Washington. Fortunately we had a car waiting for us there. So we checked into a hotel and spent the afternoon and evening washing everything made of cloth from the boat - cushion covers, bed linens, the towels we used to mop up the mess...plus our normal weeks worth of dirty laundry. Fortunately we had a small window AC unit in the trunk of the car, so we put that in the main hatch hoping it will dehumidify the boat interior and the foam cushions. No smiling faces this afternoon. What a mess. I can't imagine how we would have dried out the boat if we had been at anchor or someplace far away from a hotel, car and laundry. Tomorrow we try to put everything back together and make sure we get everything dry inside. We have worked very hard to keep mildew out of the boat so this little incident will create a challenge for us. We plan to spend about a week here doing some maintenance and sight seeing. We plan a day trip by car to the Outer Banks. We've never visited there and seeing the huge sand dunes from our slip in Manteo got our interest. In September, we plan to take the boat to town of Ocracoke on the banks for a couple of days, so we will get to see the northern banks by car and the southern banks by boat. This will probably be my last post until we return to the boat in late August. We will restock the boat and continue south after our visit to Ocracoke. Oh, before I forget, Maneto is on Roanoke Island near the site of the first English settlement. Remember the "Lost Colony" from American History class? Manteo is very remote but well worth the visit.

Photos:

1. The crane. Sorry we missed the eagle.

2. The captain planning the next day's itenerary.

More in August. Thanks for reading my blog.